Most people will be impressed and somewhat biased towards 450 size electrics. This is due mainly to cost (both up front, for parts, & batteries) and the fact that the good ones work very well for beginner fliers right up to pros… In short, one heli will follow you from your first one inch hop off the ground to your first loop, roll, or even scale fuselage if scale is your ultimate goal. 450’s are big enough to see in the sky, but small enough not to be overly intimidating/dangerous to learn/start on.
Either Tarot 450 Pro or Tarot 450 Pro v2 are for the most part give you the most rotor size per dollar ratio of all collective pitch RC helicopter sizes ranging from micro up to monster. 450’s also give fairly long flight times per battery pack/charge. These are all very important benefits and why should we consider 450’s the best RC helicopter to start with and learn on.
Firmware upgrade instruction
- 1.Connect the ZYX gyro to PC by ZYX USB adapter,click “Connect ZYX”,make sure it succeed.
- 2.Open the Firmware in ZYX PC software.
- 3.Keep the PC,USB adapter and ZYX gyro connecting.Power off ZYX gyro,press “SET” button of gyro and power on.
- 4.The red lamp is flashing,click “Upgrade” button to start upgrade,the ZYX gyro will restart after successful upgrade.
- 5.Please make sure your gyro is Tarot ZYX,otherwise the gyro will be damaged.The ZYX gyro does not need to be setup again.
ZYX-S RC Receiver selection
0 conventional receiver
1 Futaba S-BUS
2 DSM2 -1: Transmitter is DX 7, etc. (ZYX-S can be used for frequency)
3 DSM2 -2: Transmitter is DX 8, DSX9 etc. (recommended 6,7-channel receiver for frequency)
4 DSM2 -3: a transmitter for the DX 8, DSX9 etc. (recommended 9-channel receiver for frequency)
5 DSMJ: Transmitter is DSMJ standard (ZYX-S can be used for frequency)
6 DSM2 -4: The transmitter uses DM8, DM9 tuner (recommended to use 6,7-channel receiver for frequency)
7 DSMX-1: Transmitter is DX 8 et 11ms mode (recommended supporting the receiver on the frequency)
8 DSMX-2: Transmitter is DX 8 et 22ms mode (recommended supporting the receiver on the frequency)
Use L-shaped with a ready-made home accessories, mounted the LED indicator lights vertically, to be GPS Block the same time.
Paddle holder with quick release
Has prepared a 1238, and 1355 propeller, propeller has joined the quick release seat, each propeller has a positive balance measurements and shake.
Finally, a bottom view, the left two groups line is for the three-axis control line…
Receiver is connected to the power supply to real-time supply voltage reference.
Battery fixing plate, prepared relatively large space to facilitate access to two batteries in parallel
3 axis Gimbal was ready but not set up yet. Before installation, first temporarily install a hard socket hanging Gopro. Note that there is a gong nail to prevent the double-sided adhesive off insurance, and black tie is to prevent shock ring off insurance.
Add navigation lights in front of the machine arm, by remote control in a button on the switch at any time
The lead of Motor use solder wedding tight rather than a plug, while the other leads are hidden in the machine arm tube
GPS with tie bar for steady flight and prevent double-sided adhesive tape off from hitting by the blades
Reserved CAN-Bus for BTU Bluetooth regulation
Double-sided magic cloth is used as snapping BTU Bluetooth control (Remove when not using)
Step 3:The tracking is adjusted by turning the pitch rods located on the main rotor.
For the blade that’s spinning on the top path (blade with no tape), make the length of the rod longer by half a turn. For the blade that’s spinning on the bottom path (the blade with tape), shorten the length of the pitch rod. Once again, turn the pitch rods one half turn each time. Keep repeating steps two and three until you get it right.
Step 4: Once the tracking is more closely aligned and you can fly safely, increase the throttle so that the heli starts to lift.
Bring the helicopter to eye level; keep your eyes on it and double check that the blades are perfectly tracked.
This step will let you increase the blades’ speed so you are better able to see if they are aligned. If not, make the necessary corrections as mentioned in the previous steps.
Step 2: With the RC helicopter placed on flat ground, gently increase the throttle stick until you see the blades speed up.
Notice how it bunny-hops right before it starts to lift – that’s what you are aiming for. Don’t allow it to hover. Keep your eyes on the helicopter at all times. I mean it, at all times!
Then, get on your knees or your belly. Keep a safe distance. Inspect the blades: both blades have to follow the same straight path. In other words, when you look at the rotating blades you’ll notice only one blade that looks like a spinning disk.
If the blades look like they are following the same path, then you are good to go.
But if they are off track, the blades will appear on top of each other. If they are off by at least one quarter of an inch, you will need to adjust them.
You may track your blades because if they are misaligned, they will cause your helicopter to shake too much. The shaking will loosen parts that shouldn’t be loose.
With aligned blades, you will notice your helicopter fly smoother when you give it a command. It will also keep the RPM of the blades at the intended speed.
Step 1: Place some temporary red tape or even some grey duct tape on the tip of one blade.
This will allow you to tell the difference between each blade when they are spinning. It’s a great way to get a visual on misaligned blades Up to this point, tracking is strictly done by eye.
If the blades are correctly tracked and you have one tagged with tape, you’ll see the tape continuously. If the blades are misaligned, you will see two blades, one on top of the other: one with tape and the other without.
When you get closer to aligning the blades, you won’t be able to see the individual blades. As this is difficult to convey with words, take a look at the picture below. Notice that the blades look like one big spinning disk holding the helicopter in mid-air. It may take you awhile to be able to recognize this.
RC Gyro is an electronic device that is connected between the receiver and the tail rotor control (either servo or small motor).
The gyro, technically called an accelerometer, senses any rotational movement of the helicopter that isn’t a result of a signal to the receiver, and it makes fine and rapid adjustments to the tail rotor speed or blade pitch to suit the torque force at that precise moment, hence dampening out any unwanted yaw. Gyros make these calculations and corrections at lightning speed, so much so that the pilot doesn’t notice anything other than a stable helicopter!
The gyro sensitivity (‘gain’) can be adjusted by the pilot either directly on the gyro itself or remotely from the transmitter.
Heading Hold Gyros go one step further than a standard gyro by performing more complex calculations to keep the helicopter pointing in the direction that the pilot intended.
A HHG will ‘learn’ the orientation of the helicopter and maintain this heading until the pilot inputs a definite yaw control that will override the gyro. Once a signal has been received from the transmitter, the gyro learns the new heading and keeps the heli pointing in that direction until a new command is received.
Heading Hold Gyros more or less eliminate unwanted changes of direction forced on the helicopter by wind gusts. The gyro will prevent the helicopter from swinging naturally round in to the wind, in the same way as a weather vane does (the wind pushing on the tail will force the helicopter round in to wind), because it will know that the change in yaw command did not come through the receiver, and so was not made by the pilot.
HHGs, once an expensive luxury, are now commonplace and almost all rc helicopter gyros have this feature.